General Instructions

 

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Remove the white paper masking from all pieces.

Where there are letters on the edge of your pieces, you can assemble them so that the letters are hidden inside the joint.

I use common white glue, Elmer’s Glue-All. Wood glue is stronger, but I actually prefer white glue. If a piece is dropped and breaks, it’ll break cleanly at the joints rather than ripping part of the wood off, and you can reassemble it.

I like to assemble pieces by pushing their joints together flat on the table, running a line of glue along the joint, then folding them up so the glue is spread inside the joint.

Bar clamps are great, but not required.

If something isn’t working, double-check that you have the correct pieces. Most of the pieces can only be assembled one way.

Click on a picture to view it larger.

Trunk Wood Replacement Instructions

https://brightbearlaser.com/replacement-trunk-insert-black-wood-assembly/

You’ll be pulling out all of the non-red wood in your trunk, and replacing it with black wood.

Large Card Trays

You’ll create four identical trays for large cards. Each one uses a large base, two A walls, a B cap and a BB cap.

The four BB caps are pre-printed with ‘Abhoth,’ ‘Ithaqua,’ ‘General Encounters,’ and ‘Green Mythos,’ so make sure that text faces inward. You also have many dividers, which I recommend you set up as follows:

• Abhoth box: Ancient Ones A-H
• Ithaqua box: Ancient Ones I-Z, and Adventures. Antarctica Adventures will go elsewhere, and since Nyarlathotep is in this box, his adventures can go in his Ancient One slot or in the Adventures slot.
• General Encounters box: All encounters except Other World, Mystic Ruins and Devastation.
• Green Mythos box: Green, Yellow, and Blue Mythos cards, Other World encounters, Mystic Ruins encounters, Disasters & Devastation encounters.

You have a few blank dividers to customize, as well. Also, if you don’t sleeve your cards, there are four dividers with tabs on the bottom. You can insert these into the holes in the bottom of the tray to take up the extra space and prevent your cards from sliding around.

Condition Trays

You have one long Condition tray, a Personal Missions tray, and a Prelude tray.

The long Condition tray and the Personal Missions tray have two walls, a base, and two C end caps. The Prelude tray uses two CC end caps, which do not have a scoop cut out of them.

The bases for Personal Missions and Preludes are the same size, but the Personal Missions one has a hole in the center.

Insert the dividers (7 for conditions, 1 for Personal Missions) and glue into place.

The Preludes won’t fill their entire tray, so I recommend that you also put the Antarctica Adventures divider in this box and store those here. You should only need them during setup, anyway.

Small Card Tray

Start with the base, then assemble vertical walls D, E, and two end pieces F and FF. The text ‘Spell’ and ‘Unique’ should face inwards.

Next, insert the center divider G, then the horizontal dividers W, WW and WWW. All text should face forward.

If you don’t sleeve your cards, there are three small dividers you can insert into the holes in the bottom of the tray to prevent your cards from sliding around.

Investigator Token Tray

Combine the base, two M sides and two N sides. Nothing fancy here.

Long Token Tray

Combine the base, then walls H and end-caps I.

After those are assembled, insert four dividers J.

Finally, you have two pieces marked ‘Token tray spacer.’ These are glued to the end-caps (piece I); one on the left side of the impairments, one on the right side of the improvements, and with the bottom against the base plate. Think of these like a couple more of piece ‘J’, just without the tabs – creating a wall that’s just a little lower than the edge of the box. This gives the Epic Monster and Gate trays a more stable platform.

Just a note: Several expansions included Focus tokens, and I don’t intend for you to store all of them. You’ll never need more than 16 in a game.

Clue Tray

Combine the base, walls K and end-caps L. This tray also includes a lid with an engraved magnifying glass, which should NOT be glued down.

After assembly, this tray can be lined with foam, so you can shake up your clues without damaging them. There are twelve pieces of foam included; two large and small bases, two tall and short long walls, and two large and small endcaps.

Glue in the smaller base piece of foam, then the small end-caps, then the short walls. Finally, glue another base piece to the underside of the lid.

Monster Cup

Combine the base, walls ‘P’ and end-caps ‘Q’. Also a lid with ‘Monster Cup’ written on it, which should not be glued in place.

After assembly, you can line this with foam. Glue the larger base in first, then the larger end-cap pieces, then finally the tall wall pieces. Also glue another large base to the underside of the lid.

Health/Stamina/Dice Tray

Combine the base, horizontal walls R and RR, and vertical walls S and SS.

Next, insert horizontal divider T, then two vertical dividers U.

As a final touch, take two of the little pieces marked ‘Dice spacer’ and glue one to the left and right wall of the dice space. This is just to avoid a situation where your dice become perfectly packed in that slot, and difficult to remove. Here’s a diagram.

There’s also a lid which should not be glued down.

Investigator/Ancient One Tray

Combine the base, walls V and VV, two front dividers % and %% and the rear wall @.

After that’s assembled, glue in rear card wall @@. For the sides of that compartment, there are tall, thin pieces to fill it in.

The large ‘Investigators’ rectangle piece can divide your Investigator cards and your Ancient Ones, and should not be glued in.

The tray is large enough for use with 4″ x 6″ top-loading card sleeves. If you aren’t using those, there are four foam pieces included to pad the walls. Those sleeves are quite thick, so you wouldn’t be able to carry all of your investigators at once. Perhaps the best thing to do would be to bring 9 of the thick sleeves, and sleeve the characters and Ancient One you’re using in each game. If you want to do that, you’ll need to trim down the top of the foam so you can protect your unsleeved investigators while leaving space for the sleeves on top. You have what you need to customize this to the way you want to use it, and I’d be happy to hear from you about how it works out!

Gate Tokens

Combine the base, walls X and XX, and dividers Y, YY and YYY.

You also have a lid to ensure that the Mythos tokens don’t come out during transport. This is two small pieces with the tentacle symbol, one with tabs and one without; glue those together.

Epic Monsters

Combine the base, walls Z and ZZ, and two end-caps & and &&.

Assemble those, then insert divider ZZZ.

The front area is for large tokens: first player, expeditions, mystic ruins, pretty much anything larger than 1″ across.

Ancient One Stand

Combine the base, two triangular walls, and pieces 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7.

Assemble in numerical order (the unmarked walls are step 3).

That order is: back wall, front wall, side walls (so the first four pieces you build are sort of the outer structure), base for Ancient One sheet, (look at the bottom to ensure that these tabs are all the way into their slots), a wall in front of that (the rear of this is now 3 layers thick), horizontal divider midway, then divider between Mysteries and Tokens.

Accessory Tray

If you have some extra stuff – gate stands, investigator minatures, etc – you can build this tray. It replaces the Ancient One Stand in the box.

Combine the base, two walls O and OO, and two end-caps. The end-caps are unmarked, but if you’ve come this far, they’re what you have left; two square-ish pieces with sloping tops. Assemble these so that the tray is high in the back then slopes lower in the front. This will keep the box lid from catching as you close the trunk.

Rumor/Ongoing Card Stands

These stands save some table space and make ongoing effects more visible to everyone.

Combine a base, walls 9 and 10, and side pieces 8. Despite the numbering, do 9-10 first.

Putting it away

Insert the four large card trays, then a Condition or Personal Stories tray in each column to fill the space. The trays will be tucked slightly under the front lip of the box, so keep that in mind when removing them.

Left Side

First, place the main game board.

At the front, place the long token tray, then stack the Epic Monsters and Gate Tokens on top. Place the lid on the Mythos token space.

Next, stack the three small expansion boards and the board spacer. If you don’t have the three sideboard expansions, you’ll want to add some papers or such to take up the extra height.

On top, you have the character token tray and the small card tray.

Right Side

At the front, place the Clue tray – lid on – then place the Ancient One stand on top of that. (Or the Accessory tray, if you’re using that instead.)

Then the Monster Cup.

Fill in the remaining space with the Investigator/Ancient One tray, then the Health/Stamina tray on top of that.

Store your rulebooks in the elastic inside the lid.

Care and Use

The insert is designed to fit tightly, to prevent tokens and cards from falling out of their slots. You can store your game on its side, or put it in your car or game bag, and nothing will fall out of place.

Be careful and use common sense; with all the expansions, the total weight of the trunk is nearly 25 pounds, and it’s held shut by two little latches. I’ve never had an issue with the strength of the trunk, but I do recommend you check your latches, screws, leather, and rivets occasionally for looseness or fatigue. When convenient, carry the case with two hands. When carrying it by the handle, pick it up smoothly, carry it in a stable way, then set it down gently.

For a little extra security, if I’m going to be carrying the game, I keep a braided belt wrapped around the middle of my set. Here’s a belt that will work. Since these belts stretch, get the smallest size. I haven’t had any trouble with these latches and I don’t expect to, but the thought of forgetting the latches and having the lid opening and throwing 2500+ cards and tokens across a sidewalk is worth an extra step to me.